If you are planning a road trip to the Basque Country and wonder whether to include San Sebastián into your itinerary, this post is for you. We recently returned from a three-week trip in this part of Spain, so in this article I’ll go into the pros and cons of visiting San Sebastián. Based on our experience, there are plenty of good reasons to visit this city, but there are also a few cons which may be a deterrent for you.
But First Things First: where is San Sebastián?
San Sebastián is one of the four main cities in the Basque Country, Spain, next to Bilbao, Santander and Vitoria-Gasteiz, the region’s administrative capital. Officially known by the bilingual name Donostia/San Sebastián (Basque: Donostia, Spanish: San Sebastián), the city lies on the coast of the Bay of Biscay, about 12 miles from the border of Spain and France.
The Pros of Visiting San Sebastián
San Sebastián was once a summer vacation spot for European elites, and once you see it you’ll understand why.
It’s a Very Clean and Safe Place to Visit
San Sebastian is generally a very safe city to visit. The crime rate is low, and the city is very clean and well-maintained. In comparison to other larger cities in Spain, walking down the small streets of San Sebastian, no matter whether it is day-time or night-time, is pretty safe.
We spent about 5 days in San Sebastián and never felt unsafe or threatened. That being said, it’s always a good idea to be mindful of your belongings, especially in crowded areas like the Old Town, where pickpocketing can occasionally occur.
What impressed me most about this city was how clean and well maintained the streets and the buildings were. In fact, San Sebastian is famous for its elegant Belle Époque buildings and charming old streets.
In the heart of San Sebastian is its Old Quarter (Parte Vieja), a labyrinth of narrow streets lined with pintxos bars and local shops. This area buzzes with activity, especially in the evening when locals and tourists come out for a drink and a bite to eat.
It Has Beautiful Beaches and an Amazing Scenery
The city’s coastline location is a big draw for visitors. It has wide sandy beaches in either direction, while inland it abounds with green forests, high cliffs, and strange rock formations. When visiting San Sebastián you’ll be surprised how green, lush and diverse the landscape is. Even in the midst of summer, when the rest of Europe is baking in a heatwave, the city maintains its verdant color.
Beach culture is a big thing in San Sebastián because the city is blessed with quite a few nice beaches. The most popular one is La Concha. The other two are Zurriola and Ondaretta.
La Concha Beach
Located in a small bay in the center of the city, La Concha Beach is by far the best in San Sebastian. The beach has calm waters, fine golden sand and abundant amenities like sun-beds, umbrellas, showers, lifeguards on duty. Its protected location from the wind make it perfect for swimming, sunbathing and various water sports.
Zurriola Beach
Another beautiful beach is Zurriola, located on the other side of the river in the Gros neighborhood. This beach is very popular for surfing, but not so much for swimming because of its strong currents and big waves.
Excellent Food
One of the reasons San Sebastian is worth visiting is its food. So what makes the food here so special? It’s the ingredients, the fresh seafood, the local produce, and the artisan cheeses they use. The city’s rocky coastline bordered by rolling green hills and farmland, make this area great for fishing, farming, and gardening. The fresh seafood and produce are delivered almost immediately to the world-class restaurants.
San Sebastián has a large number of Michelin-starred restaurants. You practically stumble upon Michelin restaurants almost everywhere you go in this city. Some of the most renowned are Casa Unroll (3 Michelin stars), Kokotxa (3 Michelin star), Mirador de Ulia (3 Michelin star), Ikaitz (2 Michelin Stars), and Tamboril (1 Michelin stars).
But the city is especially famous for its pintxos (pronounced pin-chos), which are small snacks typically served in bars. These delicious bites are a huge part of Basque culture. You’ll find the best pintxo bars in the old town, especially the streets around the Basilica. And while strolling the old town, don’t miss the traditional Basque cheesecake, which is quite different from the one we have here, in the USA.
San Sebastián Is Home to the Oldest European Culture
The Basques have one of Europe’s oldest and most unique cultures. Their language and traditions are very different from the rest of Spain, so there is a good reason why they consider themselves a distinct cultural group. They cherish their unique language, music and folklore and try to preserve them the best they can. Even their dances set them apart from the rest of Spain or Europe.
If you want to experience the traditional Basque music and dances, San Sebastián is the place to go. Basque dances are performed on the old town streets, in plazas or public places at during all the festivities and celebrations in the Basque Country. In June, when we visited the city, they had traditional Basque dances every evening in Plaza de la Constitución.
Lots of Places to Walk or Hike
If you are looking to spend some time outdoors, San Sebastián has plenty of delightful places to stretch your legs.
Mount Urgull
Overlooking the Old Quarter, the summit of Monte Urgull and the 40 foot tall Christ statue at the top are visible from many points in the city. One of the nicest things to do in San Sebastián hike to the very top of the mountain. It’s really a nice walk that goes only in the shade, with breathtaking views. While the paths are nicely paved, there are some steep parts as well as stairs in some places.
This is a great place to observe the city and the sea. The different paths around the area open up to many scenic lookout points that are hidden between leafy patches. At the very top of the mountain you’ll see upclose the Sagrado Corazon statue (the statue of Christ) as well as the fortifications and cannons of the Castelo de la Mota.
La Concha Promenade (Paseo de la Concha)
Next to La Concha Beach there is a long promenade that follows the bay, bordered by a wrought-iron balustrade. This is a great place for walking, cycling, or people-watching. The lively promenade offers great views of La Concha Bay and Santa Clara Island. It also passes by opulent looking buildings, such as the emblematic Londres Hotel and Miramar Palace.
Don’t miss the famous Clocks scattered along the promenade, which the locals use as meeting points. Also located on the promenade is the famous thermal springs spa of La Perla. This is the only center of thalassotherapy in town, reminiscent of the time when San Sebastián was a spa city.
Mount Igueldo
Located on the western side of La Concha Beach is Monte Igueldo, a leafy mountain that features a funicular train, great views and even a roller coaster. As you ascend the mountain on the funicular, you will enjoy the stunning panoramic view of San Sebastián. Once at the top, you can go on a roller coaster and a few other amusement park rides that operate at the top of the mountain.
Having been up to both peaks, I would recommend Mt. Igueldo for the views, which are amazing. Also, if you don’t want to spend money on the funicular (€2.80) you can also hike to the top.
Interesting Museums
If you have time for museums, you’ll find quite a few interesting ones in Donostia-San Sebastian. Like Eurika! Science Museum, San Telmo Museum, which is housed in an ancient convent in San Telmo, Museum of Sacred Art, or History House in the Castillo de la Mota at the top of Monte Urgull, where you can find out about the history of San Sebastián.
Cons of Visiting San Sebastián
After listing so many good reasons to visit San Sebastián, you may be wondering what could be the cons. Well, like I promised in my title, this will be an unbiased review of San Sebastián where I’ll give both the good and the bad and let you decide whether it’s worth visiting or not.
The Weather is Totally Unpredictable
If you decide to visit San Sebastián, be prepared for rain. You may like the lush, green vegetation and cooler temperatures during the summer, but there is a reason for this. San Sebastián receives more rainfall than almost anywhere else in Spain, with an average 59 inches of rain per year. The rainiest months are October to January, but it rains often and during every season. Even in summer.
You can count that on one of the summer months will be a rainy mess, but the other two will usually be warm and sunny. The problem is you never know which month will be the rainy one. And when it rains, it rains! If you are lucky, it’s just a short shower. But sometimes it rains for a few hours and often it rains for days in a row.
San Sebastián is an Expensive City
Generally, San Sebastián is rated as a moderately expensive city, but that was not our experience. When compared to other European city, San Sebastián is among the top 15% most expensive cities in Europe.
They say that on average, a visitor can spend about $150 per day when visiting San Sebastian, while a couple would spend an average of $267 per day. Of course, prices will vary a lot based on the travel style and length of trip. But if you stay at moderately priced hotels, eat at affordable restaurants, and use public transportation, this is what you can expect to pay.
However, if you want to go to a couple of Michelin restaurants, stay in the center of the city where you can walk practically everywhere, or rent a car for day trips, the price per day will jump considerably.
Big Crowds
San Sebastián is a popular beach town with a beautiful seashore and a charming old town. The problem is that it’s not very big, so if you plan to visit it during the summer time, when the weather is nice and your chances of getting rain are slimmer, you’ll be faced with big crowds. That’s especially a problem at La Concha Beach, or when you try to get a seat at one of the bars or restaurants in the Old Quarter.
Streets will also be very crowded and sometimes you’ll have to walk almost shoulder to shoulder with other people.
Unfriendly Locals
We travel extensively through Europe and by comparison I can safely say that locals in the Basque region aren’t exactly friendly, or willing to help. They seem rather impatient and uninterested in you, as a tourist. This is especially true for San Sebastián, which sees a lot of visitors every year.
We had quite a few experiences within the five days we’ve spent there and in almost all circumstances we received average or poor service. Waiters who wouldn’t show up to take the order, or were obviously annoyed by merely asking for another drink. Shopkeepers who wouldn’t acknowledge our presence and would continue their private conversation. Hotel receptionists who were very arrogant and patronizing, and so on.
Who is San Sebastian Best Suited For?
San Sebastián is a perfect blend of natural landscapes and city attractions. Home to the world’s finest food, wine, art, and so much more! Because of its luxurious appeal, the city has always been a retreat for royalty and European aristocracy, which is why I believe it’s perfect for travelers looking for relaxation, culture and gastronomy.
It is also a great city for couples looking for a romantic getaway or in search of a serene seaside retreat.
In short, if you love the outdoors, you’ll find plenty of opportunities for hiking, surfing, and water sports in San Sebastián. And if you like to discover new dishes and wines, you’ll be in Heaven here!
A Final Note
So, is San Sebastián worth visiting? After reading both the pros and cons, I’m pretty sure your answer will be yes! In San Sebastián you’ll experience some of the best food in Spain, enjoy gorgeous scenery, visit beautiful museums and learn a few things about the oldest culture in Europe.
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